Le plus petit musée d’histoire de France

Hier, dimanche, j’ai visité ce qui est peut-être le plus petit musée d’histoire de France : le Grenier de l’Histoire, à Lèves, à côté de Chartres. Et j’y ai passé un moment si particulier, si émouvant, que j’ai envie d’en parler ici aujourd’hui. Il en va des musées comme des personnes : il y a d’un côté les nantis, les pros, les tendance, les connectés, de l’autre les fauchés, les amateurs, les vieillots, les traditionnels. Par exemple, en visite à Londres, il serait idiot de passer à côté des gigantesques et passionnants National Gallery ou British Museumsurtout que leur entrée est gratuite – mais il serait également dommage d’ignorer le Sir John Soane’s Museum, inchangé ou presque depuis sa création au 19ème siècle, avec son fatras d’objets d’art entassé dans des pièces minuscules, ou il est parfois impossible de tenir à plus de deux visiteurs. A Paris, pareil : visiter le Louvre est toujours un émerveillement – en dépit du prix, par contre – tandis que visiter le musée Gustave Moreau est une expérience intime et singulière, un voyage dans le temps. Heureusement, ni le Sir John Soane’s Museum ni le musée Gustave Moreau  n’ont à craindre pour leur avenir.

Ce n’est pas le cas du Grenier de l’Histoire. Comme me le confessait hier Monsieur Papillon, son fondateur, conservateur, propriétaire et unique guide, les visites se font de plus en plus rares, à tel point qu’il se demande si ça vaut le coup de continuer. Ce spleen, je l’ai bien ressenti, et ça m’a serré le coeur, car le Grenier de l’Histoire, qui porte bien son nom, est un de ces « cabinets de curiosités » comme on n’en fait plus, avec un thème principal : il rassemble objets, documents et costumes ayant un rapport avec l’histoire de France récente, grosso modo de Napoléon 1er à De Gaulle, avec un focus sur les deux guerres mondiales. Dans un unique bâtiment, modeste maison ancienne à la charpente de bois, une unique pièce (plus une loggia) expose la collection de monsieur Papillon (rien que son nom est un poème!) qui toute sa vie, depuis 1945, a amassé armes, uniformes, objets de la vie quotidienne des simples soldats qui ont combattu sur tous les fronts européens. Avec très peu de moyens, grâce aux dons ou à son porte-monnaie, il a acquis assez de choses pour en faire une exposition permanente digne d’être visitée, installée depuis qu’il est retraité, et dont il assume avec passion la gestion, l’entretien et l’animation.

J’étais venu avec mon fils, qui à huit ans commence à se poser des questions sur les grands évènements du XXème siècle, et dont « Il était une fois l’homme » est une de ses séries préférées. Il fallait les voir, Mackie junior et Monsieur Papillon, l’un écoutant les anecdotes de l’autre, qui pourrait être son grand-père. Intarissable sur Jean Moulin, préfet d’Eure-et-Loir avant de devenir l’organisateur de la Résistance, notre guide nous a raconté les histoires plus modestes, mais peut-être plus significatives, et sans doute plus émouvantes, attachées à tel ou tel objet que notre regard n’avait pas remarqué au premier passage. Car comme le résume Monsieur Papillon : « le succès d’un musée ne se mesure pas au nombre d’objets qu’il montre, mais au nombre d’objets qui ont pu être perçus par les visiteurs dans leur environnement humain.« 

Il y a dans ces vitrines, et chez cet homme qui les a installées, plus d’authenticité que dans bien des expositions hype, et si bien sûr il serait exagéré de venir de loin spécialement pour le visiter, je vous encourage en revanche sans réserve à y faire un petit détour, si vous passez à proximité. Il n’y a pas que la Cathédrale à Chartres. Il y a aussi ce Grenier. N’attendez pas qu’il tombe en poussière. Celui qui ne connaît pas l’histoire, est condamné à la revivre.

Le Grenier de l’Histoire,
1 bis rue des Grands-Près,
28300 Lèves
en face de la mairie ,
ouvert les samedi et dimanche de Pâques au 20 sept. de 14h30 à 18h,
ou sur rendez-vous,
tél. : 02 37 21 13 10
4€ / adulte, gratuit jusqu’à 10 ans
http://www.grenier-de-lhistoire.fr/

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